Jay Rayner’s loving ode to Joe Allen and its remarkable history (this was the place for celebs and theatre lovers back in the day) reminded us how much it deserves our attention. Joe Allen did ‘dirty food’ (American-inspired burgers, ribs and wings) way before it was a trend. We first experienced it the way everyone should – with an eccentric regular – and ordered their most famous dish, the burger that’s not on the menu. The ownership has changed hands, but they’ve kept standards resolutely high. If any London restaurant deserves your custom, it’s this place.   House & Garden – 35 London restaurants to try before you die